Hey guys
A big apology from the mighty Lees we know we have been slack but we are back in the blog writing game now.....
Still to come in the next 5 days:
Colombia
Parque National Los Nevados where we get to 5,000m
Capital city - Bogota - which we loved
gorgeous colonial town Villa de lleyva
Crossing the border from Cucuta into Venezuela
Venezuela
Merida
the breathtaking and gorgeous beaches of the Los roques islands
Peru
Lima
Crazy party town Cusco (where we are joined by our two lovely northern mates for 2 weeks)
4 day Inca trail and Michu Picchu
Thursday, 14 January 2010
The coffee plantation - excellent day
Day 2
We opt for a trip to a coffee plantation so we head to the bus stop. The weather has improved and the sun is shining.
The countryside around the Hacienda Guayadal is simply stunning and we relax with our freshly squeezed strawberry juice while we wait for our English speaking guide.
We are given a excellent and very detailed explanation of ever step of the coffee making process - it is so interesting and we didnt quite appreciate the hard work and how long it takes to produce coffee. Our guide explained the process from
nurturing the baby plants
Nurturing the grown trees
picking the beans, pickers only pick the red beans as the green beans are not ready. Pickers work for 12 hours a day carrying up to 10kg at a time.
fermenting the beans.....
washing though to.....
roasting. It was a fantastic and insightful tour with a great cuppa of Colombians finest at the end.
This finca supplies all of its best coffee for export and all the ¨reject beans¨ are kept for local consumption, but we gorge on export quality produce.
We are then given a homemade passionfruit iceceam sundae to finish the day off - quality!
We opt for a trip to a coffee plantation so we head to the bus stop. The weather has improved and the sun is shining.
The countryside around the Hacienda Guayadal is simply stunning and we relax with our freshly squeezed strawberry juice while we wait for our English speaking guide.
We are given a excellent and very detailed explanation of ever step of the coffee making process - it is so interesting and we didnt quite appreciate the hard work and how long it takes to produce coffee. Our guide explained the process fromnurturing the baby plants
Nurturing the grown trees
picking the beans, pickers only pick the red beans as the green beans are not ready. Pickers work for 12 hours a day carrying up to 10kg at a time.
fermenting the beans.....
washing though to.....
roasting. It was a fantastic and insightful tour with a great cuppa of Colombians finest at the end.This finca supplies all of its best coffee for export and all the ¨reject beans¨ are kept for local consumption, but we gorge on export quality produce.
We are then given a homemade passionfruit iceceam sundae to finish the day off - quality!
Manizales - here we come
28-30 October 2009
Day 1
Another 8 hours on the bus ahead of us, so we fill up on some pan dulce at the bakery and head for the bus station. We are treated to some stunning views on route (though it´s a windy road, with a few local bagging up) to Manizales as we head up into the Colombian Andes! Lush green montains as head up to 2600m. The temperature is dropping and its cold and raining when we arrive. Not much choice for accomodation, apart from two bunks in a dorm room at the Mountain house hostel. We head off to explore the city and find a supermarket where we treat ourselves to some healthy food. Adrian is feeling out of sorts as the rain continues.
Day 1
Another 8 hours on the bus ahead of us, so we fill up on some pan dulce at the bakery and head for the bus station. We are treated to some stunning views on route (though it´s a windy road, with a few local bagging up) to Manizales as we head up into the Colombian Andes! Lush green montains as head up to 2600m. The temperature is dropping and its cold and raining when we arrive. Not much choice for accomodation, apart from two bunks in a dorm room at the Mountain house hostel. We head off to explore the city and find a supermarket where we treat ourselves to some healthy food. Adrian is feeling out of sorts as the rain continues.
Medellin - our least favourite city
27 October 2009
We arrive at the Black sheep (yes its kiwi owned) and are less than impressed. Although feeling a little fragile after a broken nights sleep (15 hour bus ride), we head off to explore.
We stick out like a sore thumb in Medellin and all the staring is extremely uncomfortable. Not knowing where to go for lunch we make a terrible decision, but not before Maja has an interesting interchange with some locals about the pronunciation of the words "dulce" which means sweet in english. Seems pretty straightforward but the ladies in the bakery seem to think we are from Mars.
Back to lunch yuck........Fish soup including heads, fins and everything, had it been fresh it would have been fine - but it wasn't, Maja ate very little and it was definitely our worst meal ever.
We then head off to view the Fernando Botero´s bronze sculputures and art gallery. His paintings and sculptures are united by their proportially exaggerated, or "fat" figures, as he once referred to them.
We also take a cable car ride to the top of the city to look at the enormous sprawl of shanty towns - that is Medellin - pretty grim.
We start to head towards Senor Escobars grave, we metro it but the grave is in a shady part of town so we decide to give it a miss.
Its pizza and a early night, we cant wait to leave this dirty town behind us!
We arrive at the Black sheep (yes its kiwi owned) and are less than impressed. Although feeling a little fragile after a broken nights sleep (15 hour bus ride), we head off to explore.
We stick out like a sore thumb in Medellin and all the staring is extremely uncomfortable. Not knowing where to go for lunch we make a terrible decision, but not before Maja has an interesting interchange with some locals about the pronunciation of the words "dulce" which means sweet in english. Seems pretty straightforward but the ladies in the bakery seem to think we are from Mars.
Back to lunch yuck........Fish soup including heads, fins and everything, had it been fresh it would have been fine - but it wasn't, Maja ate very little and it was definitely our worst meal ever.
We then head off to view the Fernando Botero´s bronze sculputures and art gallery. His paintings and sculptures are united by their proportially exaggerated, or "fat" figures, as he once referred to them.
We also take a cable car ride to the top of the city to look at the enormous sprawl of shanty towns - that is Medellin - pretty grim.We start to head towards Senor Escobars grave, we metro it but the grave is in a shady part of town so we decide to give it a miss.
Its pizza and a early night, we cant wait to leave this dirty town behind us!
Park Tayrona - day 3
26 October 2009
We decide to only stay 2 nights and break for the border early doors. We set off on our 5km hike to the park entrance, we even decide to walk all the way to the bus stop which is a further 5 km. This extra distance seems further than we both remembered but in true Lee fashion we stick to the task in hand. Breakfast came in a form of two very average fried eggs and toast at a greasy spoon next to the bus stop.
Back in Santa Marta - we dump our stuff at the hotel (no hostels tonight), and buy our bus tickets for our next destination - Medellin. The late Pablo Escobars former stomping ground.
After another day of loitering with intent in Santa Marta, eating and drinking in other words. We head for our night bus trip to Medellin. We chat to a couple of Danish girls who warn us about the crazy costs of travelling in Brasil (as we found out so true)
We decide to only stay 2 nights and break for the border early doors. We set off on our 5km hike to the park entrance, we even decide to walk all the way to the bus stop which is a further 5 km. This extra distance seems further than we both remembered but in true Lee fashion we stick to the task in hand. Breakfast came in a form of two very average fried eggs and toast at a greasy spoon next to the bus stop.
Back in Santa Marta - we dump our stuff at the hotel (no hostels tonight), and buy our bus tickets for our next destination - Medellin. The late Pablo Escobars former stomping ground.
After another day of loitering with intent in Santa Marta, eating and drinking in other words. We head for our night bus trip to Medellin. We chat to a couple of Danish girls who warn us about the crazy costs of travelling in Brasil (as we found out so true)
Park Tayrona - day 2
25 October 2009
We are awake early because thats what happens when you sleep in a hammock and Ade quickly discovers that bed bugs in his "luxury" hammock have feasted on his shoulder! It looks disgusting.
After a spot of brekkie we set off to explore the park and head for a beach called Cabot San Juan which is the nicest beach for swimming. On arriving at Cabot we bump into couple of canadian guys we met in Panama city, we exchange a few tales of Cartagena and Colombia in general.
Tayrona park looks like something out of Jurassic park, if you can imagine a beach with huge stone boudlers and intense jungle as a back drop.
Here are some pics courtesy of google......
Jack (lost city Jack) appears later on in the afternoon and we tuck into some lunch. we leave san juan at 4pm to get back to Arecife before dark.
Adrian is extremely careful about contact with the hammock.
We are awake early because thats what happens when you sleep in a hammock and Ade quickly discovers that bed bugs in his "luxury" hammock have feasted on his shoulder! It looks disgusting.
After a spot of brekkie we set off to explore the park and head for a beach called Cabot San Juan which is the nicest beach for swimming. On arriving at Cabot we bump into couple of canadian guys we met in Panama city, we exchange a few tales of Cartagena and Colombia in general.
Tayrona park looks like something out of Jurassic park, if you can imagine a beach with huge stone boudlers and intense jungle as a back drop.
Here are some pics courtesy of google......
Jack (lost city Jack) appears later on in the afternoon and we tuck into some lunch. we leave san juan at 4pm to get back to Arecife before dark. Adrian is extremely careful about contact with the hammock.
Park Tayrona
Apologies, there are no pics of Tayrona as the camera had died - soz!
24 October 2009
Day 1
Our intrepid explorers decide to get on a local bus to Park Tayrona and shun the tourist option - twice the price. Finding the bus stop in 40 degree heat with our packs full of enough clothes for 3 days was mad and thirsty work.
We arrived at the edge of the park and headed off to the passport control. The charge tourists twice the price vs what the locals pay - what a rip!
We opted for the "luxury" hammocks at a eco lodge on Arecife which was a 5km walk from the park gates. The trek was a little tougher and muddier than we thought it would be, but after a lot of moaning from Maja we arrive in the early evening to get a shower and select our hammock. We walk along to one of the closer beaches and chill out.
24 October 2009
Day 1
Our intrepid explorers decide to get on a local bus to Park Tayrona and shun the tourist option - twice the price. Finding the bus stop in 40 degree heat with our packs full of enough clothes for 3 days was mad and thirsty work.
We arrived at the edge of the park and headed off to the passport control. The charge tourists twice the price vs what the locals pay - what a rip!
We opted for the "luxury" hammocks at a eco lodge on Arecife which was a 5km walk from the park gates. The trek was a little tougher and muddier than we thought it would be, but after a lot of moaning from Maja we arrive in the early evening to get a shower and select our hammock. We walk along to one of the closer beaches and chill out.
The final day
Day 5
The toughest day of the hike is today, as we have to combine what we did on day 1 + 2. The weather is taking a turn for the worst and the race is on to get back before the heavens open. After 4 days of hiking, a 7 hour hike is a challenge for everyone in the group - so we get split into 3 groups, walking with Maja and Adrian was Jack and a boring German called Nicholas. No time for lunch so we are depending on our breakfast to carry us through. We take a small 15 minute break at first camp and restock our water bottle before pushing on up the hill (1 hour).
As we reach the top the torrential rain starts and doesnt stop, the track is so muddy and turns the track into a water slide so we end up sliding down.
We reach our final destination, starving we are greeted by some terrible food but the beer tastes so good, so we dont care. We are so pleased to be getting back to civilisation or at least Santa Marta.
In the evening we all meet up (12 of us including our 2 guides) and have a big celebratory party at a great bar/club in santa Marta.
Ade and Maja are partied out by 1am (shock, horror) and find out the next morning that the french girl in our group was mugged at gun point just 50m from the club we were in. Such a shame as it slightly ruined a fantastic night.
In summary: the trek was awesome. The guides, porters and cooks were all so lovely, friendly and super helpful. Nothing was a problem and the always had a smile on their faces. The food was tasty and we still cant believe how much these guys carried (we carried 5-6kgs in our packs) these guys were carrying watermelons, pineapples so we could have fruit breaks along the way, eggs, chicken etc + their packs. A
A wonderful and challenging experience - highly recommend it.
The toughest day of the hike is today, as we have to combine what we did on day 1 + 2. The weather is taking a turn for the worst and the race is on to get back before the heavens open. After 4 days of hiking, a 7 hour hike is a challenge for everyone in the group - so we get split into 3 groups, walking with Maja and Adrian was Jack and a boring German called Nicholas. No time for lunch so we are depending on our breakfast to carry us through. We take a small 15 minute break at first camp and restock our water bottle before pushing on up the hill (1 hour).
As we reach the top the torrential rain starts and doesnt stop, the track is so muddy and turns the track into a water slide so we end up sliding down.
We reach our final destination, starving we are greeted by some terrible food but the beer tastes so good, so we dont care. We are so pleased to be getting back to civilisation or at least Santa Marta.
In the evening we all meet up (12 of us including our 2 guides) and have a big celebratory party at a great bar/club in santa Marta.
Ade and Maja are partied out by 1am (shock, horror) and find out the next morning that the french girl in our group was mugged at gun point just 50m from the club we were in. Such a shame as it slightly ruined a fantastic night.
In summary: the trek was awesome. The guides, porters and cooks were all so lovely, friendly and super helpful. Nothing was a problem and the always had a smile on their faces. The food was tasty and we still cant believe how much these guys carried (we carried 5-6kgs in our packs) these guys were carrying watermelons, pineapples so we could have fruit breaks along the way, eggs, chicken etc + their packs. A
A wonderful and challenging experience - highly recommend it.
More of the same....
Day 4
We kick the day off with a 2 hour tour of the complete site with Marron giving us a thorough overview (Martin kindly translating Spanish into english for the group). After our tour its a quick pic of the final group...
and its time to head back we are less enthusiastic about the next 2 days as the walk back is the same route as the way in. We arrive at camp exhausted as we had no sleep the previous night thanks to the thin mattress and to 5 -6 snorers.
We kick the day off with a 2 hour tour of the complete site with Marron giving us a thorough overview (Martin kindly translating Spanish into english for the group). After our tour its a quick pic of the final group...
and its time to head back we are less enthusiastic about the next 2 days as the walk back is the same route as the way in. We arrive at camp exhausted as we had no sleep the previous night thanks to the thin mattress and to 5 -6 snorers.
Taking it to the limit
Day 3
Another early 5am start we have breakfast and get prepared for what will be a tough day. Unfortunatey for our maths wizz Martin it was going to be even tougher - he has severe diarrohea and was constantly having to go every 5- 10 mins. But he clenched his teeth and kept on going.
We walk for 15 mins and what presents itself is Majas worst nightmare. The path ahead is narrow and slippery as it winds itself along a cliff edge there is a sheer drop of 100m down to the river below. Maj starts crying and refuses to go ahead, with the whole group behind her. As usual she doesnt want any help from Adrian, so Marron grabs Majs hand an literally drags her across. 10 mins later we arrive at the first of our 7 river crossings. M + A change into their ugly walking sandals and make it across no problem. Jack decides to put on his flip flops and loses one, so Marron (superman) has to swim down the river to get it.
On our river crossings we walk past several Kogi indians, they look like what they did 500 year ago, long straggly hair, a white robe tied with a rope, barefeet, jaws working overtime chewing their coca leaves. And their trusty coca leaf bag tied to their waist. The woman look like the men, probably due to all the inbreeding. Unfortunately, no pics, as not allowed to take them.
8 hours later (yep loooong day) We finally arrive at the entrance of the famous Ciudad Peridida (Lost City).
It is believed to have been founded about 800 A.D., some 650 years earlier than Micchu Pichu. Ciudad Perdida was discovered in 1972, when a group of local treasure looters found a series of stone steps rising up the mountainside and followed them to an abandoned city which they named "Green Hell" or "Wide Set". When gold figurines and ceramic urns from this city began to appear in the local black market, authorities revealed the site in 1975. Ciudad Perdida was probably the region's political and manufacturing center on the Buritaca river and may have housed 2,000 to 8,000 people. It was apparently abandoned during the spanish conquest.
Ciudad Perdida consists of a series of 169 terraces carved into the mountainside, a net of tiled roads and several small circular plazas.
At the entrance we then discover we have to climb 1,200 stone steps through dense jungle to get to the top. Its a tough slog, all the steps are covered in moss and lynchen so its really slippery underfoot.
We are greeted at the top by a 17 year old military guard with a smile and a rather large machine gun. After a tourist group was kidnapped in 2003 and held for 101 days the security throughout the trek has been beefed up.
We are slightly disappointed that only the foundations of the city remain, but even so the site is breathtaking especially with the Colombian jungle as the back drop.
Maja and Tatjana thrilled to be at the top...
and we are so proud to have made it.
It is a large site much of it is still to be excavated and no buildings remain.
Many of the precious artifacts have been removed and are on exhibition at the gold museum in Bogota.
We had free time to look around and post that were shown our beds for the night - a thin foam mattress in a mosquito net - our exhausted bodies suddenly crave the hammocks.
Another early 5am start we have breakfast and get prepared for what will be a tough day. Unfortunatey for our maths wizz Martin it was going to be even tougher - he has severe diarrohea and was constantly having to go every 5- 10 mins. But he clenched his teeth and kept on going.
We walk for 15 mins and what presents itself is Majas worst nightmare. The path ahead is narrow and slippery as it winds itself along a cliff edge there is a sheer drop of 100m down to the river below. Maj starts crying and refuses to go ahead, with the whole group behind her. As usual she doesnt want any help from Adrian, so Marron grabs Majs hand an literally drags her across. 10 mins later we arrive at the first of our 7 river crossings. M + A change into their ugly walking sandals and make it across no problem. Jack decides to put on his flip flops and loses one, so Marron (superman) has to swim down the river to get it.
On our river crossings we walk past several Kogi indians, they look like what they did 500 year ago, long straggly hair, a white robe tied with a rope, barefeet, jaws working overtime chewing their coca leaves. And their trusty coca leaf bag tied to their waist. The woman look like the men, probably due to all the inbreeding. Unfortunately, no pics, as not allowed to take them.
8 hours later (yep loooong day) We finally arrive at the entrance of the famous Ciudad Peridida (Lost City).
It is believed to have been founded about 800 A.D., some 650 years earlier than Micchu Pichu. Ciudad Perdida was discovered in 1972, when a group of local treasure looters found a series of stone steps rising up the mountainside and followed them to an abandoned city which they named "Green Hell" or "Wide Set". When gold figurines and ceramic urns from this city began to appear in the local black market, authorities revealed the site in 1975. Ciudad Perdida was probably the region's political and manufacturing center on the Buritaca river and may have housed 2,000 to 8,000 people. It was apparently abandoned during the spanish conquest.
Ciudad Perdida consists of a series of 169 terraces carved into the mountainside, a net of tiled roads and several small circular plazas.
At the entrance we then discover we have to climb 1,200 stone steps through dense jungle to get to the top. Its a tough slog, all the steps are covered in moss and lynchen so its really slippery underfoot.
We are greeted at the top by a 17 year old military guard with a smile and a rather large machine gun. After a tourist group was kidnapped in 2003 and held for 101 days the security throughout the trek has been beefed up.
We are slightly disappointed that only the foundations of the city remain, but even so the site is breathtaking especially with the Colombian jungle as the back drop.
Maja and Tatjana thrilled to be at the top...
and we are so proud to have made it.
It is a large site much of it is still to be excavated and no buildings remain.
Many of the precious artifacts have been removed and are on exhibition at the gold museum in Bogota.
We had free time to look around and post that were shown our beds for the night - a thin foam mattress in a mosquito net - our exhausted bodies suddenly crave the hammocks.
Taking it easy
Day 2
Up at the crack, we get a fantastic brekfast of muesli, fruit, eggs - the works.
As its a relatively easy and short hike today we dont leave camp until 10:30am - we are all slightly confused as to the 5am start.
Its another blistering hot day, as we get to see the way the Kogi Indians live and its unrea. Their houses look exactly how they would have 500 years ago - mud brick, thatched roofs and mud floors.
There are also lots of chickens in baskets laying egs and pigs running about - the Kogis are completely self sufficient. we are not allowed to go into the village but just look from the outside.
2:30pm we arrive at second camp ade and the group (minus Maj) head to the river for a refreshing splash about.
It was a long time before the end of the day, so to ease our boredom we spend 4 hours playing ridiculous games and Jack entertaining us wtih hilarious stories of his previous jobs. after another great dinner we head for our hammocks. The novelty of sleeping in hamocks is starting to wear very thin.
Up at the crack, we get a fantastic brekfast of muesli, fruit, eggs - the works.
As its a relatively easy and short hike today we dont leave camp until 10:30am - we are all slightly confused as to the 5am start.
Its another blistering hot day, as we get to see the way the Kogi Indians live and its unrea. Their houses look exactly how they would have 500 years ago - mud brick, thatched roofs and mud floors.
There are also lots of chickens in baskets laying egs and pigs running about - the Kogis are completely self sufficient. we are not allowed to go into the village but just look from the outside.2:30pm we arrive at second camp ade and the group (minus Maj) head to the river for a refreshing splash about.
It was a long time before the end of the day, so to ease our boredom we spend 4 hours playing ridiculous games and Jack entertaining us wtih hilarious stories of his previous jobs. after another great dinner we head for our hammocks. The novelty of sleeping in hamocks is starting to wear very thin.
Enter the jungle
19-23 October 2009
Day 1
8am start: we drop of our packs at Casa familiar and meet the rest of our trek group - well Maja does, Ade is frantically running around the streets of Santa Marta desperately trying to find a fax machine to send a fax to Egg due to his credit card fraud, that happened while we were in Mexico.
The driver is getting agitated he wants to leave - Maj in her basic Spanish is trying to stall him by making polite conversation.
Finally after 10 long minutes Adrian returns triumphant and we are ready to rock and roll....
Meet the group:
Tatjana: a German tomboy who apparently is a trained hunter
Jack: a larger than life New Yorker who never stops talking
Martin: a brainy Czech who is studying for a phd in mathematics
Lebor (aka Tuborg, thats what Maj called him the whole time) : Martins equally brain mate who is studying for a phd in bio chemistry
The ride up was hairy in a tinny, battered old 4 wheel drive. we arrive at a small restaurant. after sandwiches and litres of cola, we are told to put our packs onto the mules (this will be the only time we dont cary our own pack) for the loooong hot hike up, we are walking 3 1/2 hours today. And its up, up, up for 2 solid hours in 30 degree heat. There is gorgeous scenery on the way up that helps soften the pain.
The hike gets easier on the last 1 1/2 hours and we make it to our first camp by 4:30pm. There are 4 other hiking groups there also.
The mules were behind us so we have to wait before we can jump into the shower and change out of our sweaty clothes. We are all hot and bothered, in the meantime we bags our hammocks (yep we will be sleeping in hammocks for the next 3 nights) Our packs arrive after a quick shower, we sit down for a dinner of soup, rice and chicken.
Marron, our guide then gives us a 30 min history lesson on Colombia, then its time for bed.
8:30pm HAMMOCK TIME!
Day 1
8am start: we drop of our packs at Casa familiar and meet the rest of our trek group - well Maja does, Ade is frantically running around the streets of Santa Marta desperately trying to find a fax machine to send a fax to Egg due to his credit card fraud, that happened while we were in Mexico.
The driver is getting agitated he wants to leave - Maj in her basic Spanish is trying to stall him by making polite conversation.
Finally after 10 long minutes Adrian returns triumphant and we are ready to rock and roll....
Meet the group:
Tatjana: a German tomboy who apparently is a trained hunter
Jack: a larger than life New Yorker who never stops talking
Martin: a brainy Czech who is studying for a phd in mathematics
Lebor (aka Tuborg, thats what Maj called him the whole time) : Martins equally brain mate who is studying for a phd in bio chemistry
The ride up was hairy in a tinny, battered old 4 wheel drive. we arrive at a small restaurant. after sandwiches and litres of cola, we are told to put our packs onto the mules (this will be the only time we dont cary our own pack) for the loooong hot hike up, we are walking 3 1/2 hours today. And its up, up, up for 2 solid hours in 30 degree heat. There is gorgeous scenery on the way up that helps soften the pain.
The hike gets easier on the last 1 1/2 hours and we make it to our first camp by 4:30pm. There are 4 other hiking groups there also.The mules were behind us so we have to wait before we can jump into the shower and change out of our sweaty clothes. We are all hot and bothered, in the meantime we bags our hammocks (yep we will be sleeping in hammocks for the next 3 nights) Our packs arrive after a quick shower, we sit down for a dinner of soup, rice and chicken.
Marron, our guide then gives us a 30 min history lesson on Colombia, then its time for bed.
8:30pm HAMMOCK TIME!
Provisions and Equipment
19 October 2009
Ade is in dire need of new walking shoes and Maja needs some socks and other bits and bobs, so they head to the shopping mall. Surprise, surprise the only shoes that fit Adrian are a pair of Oakley walking shoes which cost 100 pounds mmmm nice work Ade!
Ade is in dire need of new walking shoes and Maja needs some socks and other bits and bobs, so they head to the shopping mall. Surprise, surprise the only shoes that fit Adrian are a pair of Oakley walking shoes which cost 100 pounds mmmm nice work Ade!
Day of the dead
18 October 2009
We head onto the main drag for a spot of lunch and a beer - it was ok - just. Maj then admits she is not feeling great and ends up staying in bed all day. She protests that its not self inflicted but Ade thinks otherwise haha
Ade is left to run around Santa Marta to organise our 5 day jungle trek to the Lost city. after a couple of hours he returns, satisfied having completed his mission, having booked the trek for 20 October - Maj has to hurry up and get well, as its going to be tough!
We head onto the main drag for a spot of lunch and a beer - it was ok - just. Maj then admits she is not feeling great and ends up staying in bed all day. She protests that its not self inflicted but Ade thinks otherwise haha
Ade is left to run around Santa Marta to organise our 5 day jungle trek to the Lost city. after a couple of hours he returns, satisfied having completed his mission, having booked the trek for 20 October - Maj has to hurry up and get well, as its going to be tough!
Santa Marta - here we come!
17 October 2009
Feeling dreadful, (we manage to get 2 hours sleep) we bid farewel to Cartagena and get the bus to Santa Marta, a seaside resort on the Carribean coast. Thanks to a car accident the 3 1/2 hour bus ride turns into 5 and Maj spends most of the ride with her head down the toilet.
we find a budget accomodation "hostel del sol" its a bit like a bunker ie no windows and mattress is on a solid concrete base but it has a great bathroom, air con and cable TV so no too shabby.
We head out for a dirty burger and a mixed grill, get ripped off but we are too tired to care so head to bed.
Feeling dreadful, (we manage to get 2 hours sleep) we bid farewel to Cartagena and get the bus to Santa Marta, a seaside resort on the Carribean coast. Thanks to a car accident the 3 1/2 hour bus ride turns into 5 and Maj spends most of the ride with her head down the toilet.
we find a budget accomodation "hostel del sol" its a bit like a bunker ie no windows and mattress is on a solid concrete base but it has a great bathroom, air con and cable TV so no too shabby.
We head out for a dirty burger and a mixed grill, get ripped off but we are too tired to care so head to bed.
Beautiful Cartagena
16 October 2009
We spend the day strolling around the beautiful colonial Cartagena.
Maj loved the bright colours and we found there was a French influence in the affluent area of san diego.
Such a gorgeous day, we stop for lunch at El Bistro a german run restaurant, excellent value 3 course meal 8 pounds for the both of us.
After lunch we head to the spanish inquestition museum, which had various torture devices and explanations about how the Spanish killed the indigeous people who they thought were witches.
We also walked the wall around the old town and soaked up the rays.
Tonight, we are up for a party, so we head to a Cuban salsa bar called "Havana cafe", there were beautiful people strutting their stuff with some very sexy salsa moves and a fab live Cuban band. After several delicious mojitos we strike up a conversation with a lively Irishman and the 3 of us party until dawn. Fun, fun, fun.....
We spend the day strolling around the beautiful colonial Cartagena.
Maj loved the bright colours and we found there was a French influence in the affluent area of san diego.
Such a gorgeous day, we stop for lunch at El Bistro a german run restaurant, excellent value 3 course meal 8 pounds for the both of us.After lunch we head to the spanish inquestition museum, which had various torture devices and explanations about how the Spanish killed the indigeous people who they thought were witches.
We also walked the wall around the old town and soaked up the rays.Tonight, we are up for a party, so we head to a Cuban salsa bar called "Havana cafe", there were beautiful people strutting their stuff with some very sexy salsa moves and a fab live Cuban band. After several delicious mojitos we strike up a conversation with a lively Irishman and the 3 of us party until dawn. Fun, fun, fun.....
Wheres Oh la la......
15 October 2009
After a great nights sleep (though we can still feel the rocking of the boat) and breakfast. We plan out our day. Our 3 priorities are:
1. Get a lonely planet
2. Find a little french restaurant called Oh la la, it has had rave reviews in the NY times
3. Write the blog :), (ends up not getting done for 3 months as you all know!)
so first things first we decide to hunt for the french restaurant, according to their website its just around the corner from our hotel.....well we spend the next hour searching to find nothing. We come to the conclusion that it has moved. We give up, no restaurant is worth this much stress.
We head to the biggest shopping mall in Colombia to get a guide book. We find the only bookshop in the mall and buy "the rough guide to South America", it ends up costing us 53 pounds, so expensive considering its 24 pounds back in the UK.
After an eventful day of book and restaurant hunting we are knackered and decide to have a chilled out night watching "hot fuzz".
After a great nights sleep (though we can still feel the rocking of the boat) and breakfast. We plan out our day. Our 3 priorities are:
1. Get a lonely planet
2. Find a little french restaurant called Oh la la, it has had rave reviews in the NY times
3. Write the blog :), (ends up not getting done for 3 months as you all know!)
so first things first we decide to hunt for the french restaurant, according to their website its just around the corner from our hotel.....well we spend the next hour searching to find nothing. We come to the conclusion that it has moved. We give up, no restaurant is worth this much stress.
We head to the biggest shopping mall in Colombia to get a guide book. We find the only bookshop in the mall and buy "the rough guide to South America", it ends up costing us 53 pounds, so expensive considering its 24 pounds back in the UK.
After an eventful day of book and restaurant hunting we are knackered and decide to have a chilled out night watching "hot fuzz".
Cartagena - stetson and MJ
14 October - 16 October 2009
The Lees have heard a lot of great things about Cartagena and are keen to verify the stories. Our hotel "Cartagena relax" is in Getsemani, which is just a 10 mion to the walled old town. Getsemani is a great part of town to stay in as you get to experience true Colombian life. During the day the various squares around the streets are packed with children playing, adults reading the papers, debating with each other while drinking their coffee. While at night, the streets come alive with domino boards, salsa music and just a fantastic party vibe.
On our first night we ended up meeting up with the motle crew (Rob + twindle dum and dee) to have our celebratory "we made it on dry land" drinks. Due to it being a Wednesday, a number of bars we closed so we jumped into a cab and headed to Cafe del mar. It was a fabulously glamourous bar, built into the wall, with great views over Cartagena.
Cafe del mar was reminiscent of the Ibiza version, including the prices. Alas we stayed for one drink each and headed to a cheaper drinking establishment, a random Italian bar/pizza place that the taxi driver dumped us at. When we arrive, the owner a bizarrre ma in a stetson hat and his mate jump on the roof and start rambling and pretending they are going to jump off. Stetson, then decides to get off the roof, come over to us and starts saying in English that he has the best Michael Jackson impersonator in the country. In his words "number one in the world" and do we want to buy tickets for the gig on saturday night. We all politely decline (the guy is wasted), next minute Bilie Jean is cranked up and a very camp guy starts pulling out the MJ moves, he is a good dancer but hardly the a impersonator - its a lip synch, a few groin moves and its all over.
We decide to quickly finish our caprinhas and head home, agreeing to meet up again the following night (the Lees knowing they are definitely not going to be there)
The Lees have heard a lot of great things about Cartagena and are keen to verify the stories. Our hotel "Cartagena relax" is in Getsemani, which is just a 10 mion to the walled old town. Getsemani is a great part of town to stay in as you get to experience true Colombian life. During the day the various squares around the streets are packed with children playing, adults reading the papers, debating with each other while drinking their coffee. While at night, the streets come alive with domino boards, salsa music and just a fantastic party vibe.
On our first night we ended up meeting up with the motle crew (Rob + twindle dum and dee) to have our celebratory "we made it on dry land" drinks. Due to it being a Wednesday, a number of bars we closed so we jumped into a cab and headed to Cafe del mar. It was a fabulously glamourous bar, built into the wall, with great views over Cartagena.
Cafe del mar was reminiscent of the Ibiza version, including the prices. Alas we stayed for one drink each and headed to a cheaper drinking establishment, a random Italian bar/pizza place that the taxi driver dumped us at. When we arrive, the owner a bizarrre ma in a stetson hat and his mate jump on the roof and start rambling and pretending they are going to jump off. Stetson, then decides to get off the roof, come over to us and starts saying in English that he has the best Michael Jackson impersonator in the country. In his words "number one in the world" and do we want to buy tickets for the gig on saturday night. We all politely decline (the guy is wasted), next minute Bilie Jean is cranked up and a very camp guy starts pulling out the MJ moves, he is a good dancer but hardly the a impersonator - its a lip synch, a few groin moves and its all over.
We decide to quickly finish our caprinhas and head home, agreeing to meet up again the following night (the Lees knowing they are definitely not going to be there)
Tuesday, 17 November 2009
The motley crew.....post showers
14 October 2009: Cartagena Colombia - Club Nautica
I forgot to mention that because we all felt too sick to go under the deck to the bathroom we didn´t change our clothes or have showers for 2 days! yes really!! Even me (Maja).
We felt disgusting, these pics were taken once we had all scrubbed up....
By the way Mats´insisted that his wife and "love child" were in the crew pic, even though they didn´t sail with us.
I forgot to mention that because we all felt too sick to go under the deck to the bathroom we didn´t change our clothes or have showers for 2 days! yes really!! Even me (Maja).
We felt disgusting, these pics were taken once we had all scrubbed up....
By the way Mats´insisted that his wife and "love child" were in the crew pic, even though they didn´t sail with us.
40 hour sailing nightmare.....
12 - 14 October 2009
Following our last day at the San Blas islands we prepare the boat for the Carribean seas, and fill our bellies with spag bol (not the best choice of meal as it happens particularly for Adrian and Rob.) As night follows day we are all feeling buoyant and exited but this is short lived. We soon encounter much rougher seas and 2 hours after night fall Adrian and Rob are saying "Hello" to the spag bol. Rob is green and spends the next 40 hours either being sick or lying in his coffin/babies cot! Adrian revoers a little, but needs to lie down for the rest of the evening. Maja complains about bed bugs!
Sunset at night 1....
The following day is more bearable but the crew do spend most of the day lying down or sleeping in one place or another.
And we have all lost our appetites - great weight loss tool for sure!
And all we see is blue sea, nothing else at all!!!
The second night the weather deteriorates and Mats uses all of his skills to avoid the eye of the storm. We all get virtually zero sleep as the boat is moving up, down and all around "big time". Maja is terrified, thinks its the end of the line and sheds a few tears.
We awake to sunshine and calm waters on the final day. Mats has been up all night and Adrian takes control of the boat ;) while Mats has a couple of hours kip.
Cartagena is finally in our sights and we are arrive in 1 piece albeit in 40 degree heat, absolutely boiling. The Lees smooch off to the supermarket where they proceed to eat their weight in food for a couple of hours, while are visas are sorted.
Due to being eaten by mysterious bed bugs, Maja is adamant about staying in luxurious accomodation. Adrian suggests a mid range option "Cartagena relax" which turns out to be an excellent choice.
A 40 hour straight sail was a great experience but not one the Lees are likely to repeat!
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