Saturday, 29 August 2009

We still love you all....

Hi there
Just a quick post to let you know not to panic, the last installment of the Mexican trip will be with you all next week. We hit Costa Rica in a couple of days so we are busy enjoying the last part of Mexico.....still to come.....

Maja and Ade mountain biking to indigeous villages in San Cristobel followed by vino and tapas

Palenque - amazing ruins in the jungle and a party mad Mexican town

Guatamala - river boat trip through the jungle to see the phenomanal Yaxachalan Mayan (up close and personal with howler, squirrel monkeys and tucans) ruins/temples and Bonampak.

Mireda/Chitchen Itza

Tuesday, 25 August 2009

Getting into the holiday flow man......

Friday, 21 August 2009

Woken up by the sound of the crashing waves and the sun streaming into our palm thatched roofs - what a fantastic start to the day.

We have a spot of brekkie and settle into our chairs for the day - thinking of doing nothing else for the next 3 days but this.

Zipolite is a well known beach for nudists, and yes we saw a couple -but one that deserves a mention is who the locals call "elephant man" - we referred to him as "the schlong meister" we will leave the rest to your imagination. He treated us to his "performance" 3-4 times a day sometimes even 6 times.

Friday afternoon
Thank crunchie its Friday - time for beer and cocktails. Sitting on the beach and modelling all day is hard work.

Paradise - almost

Thursday, 20 August 2009 (late afternoon)

We are dropped off at our chosen accomodation for the next 3 nights "Posada Mexico"aka little Italy. Well, all we can say is great things about the place, as soon as you walk through the entrance you feel like you have come to the right place to chilax and not worry about a thing.

Posada Mexico is owned by an Italian and his mexican wife, though they are not there he has ensured that the Italian flavour remains with his mate from Florence at the helm- who by the way at night doubles up as the wood fire pizza master.

Our cabana is gorgeous, it even has a little sand frontage to it, with our very own hammock and chair. As you can see below. The beds and pillows were the most comfortable and clean that we have had in a while.


As soon as you walk into the main bar and restaurant you look out onto the ocean - which is truly special


No expense has been spared. The ownerMassimiliano sure had a great vision and knew exactly how this place should look and feel. It was 4 years in the making apparently and it was worth it - it´s exactly how you would imagine a Mexican beach resort to be . In the social area there are hammocks to relax on, sun loungers and swing like chairs that you can sit on while you are sipping your cocktails at night. The restaurant serves a wicked breakfast and fantastic pizzas - which we sampled tonight.

Cocktails were great value too, 2 for 1 from 6:30-10:30pm and only 2 pounds for 2 drinks not bad at all.

The place was really busy when we arrived - a load of Italian, French and Spanish travellers - which we were really pleased about.

Monday, 24 August 2009

A little Zipolite taster.....

Heading to "paradise"

Thursday, 20 August
We are heading to Zipolite where Lonely Planet states "Paradise - you will extend your stay"

Getting to Zipolite is a mission - first we need to Puerto Escondido from Oaxaca (6.5 hours).

The great vandiscovery......
We opt to take the scenic route through the mountains in a transit van rather than 10 hours on a bus that "occassionally gets held up and robbed at night!"

The van option is 4 hours quicker and 1/2 the price, no brainer!

Just so you dont think I make my wife do all the hard work this is Adrian typing now, so please note the subtle style changes and increased humour! Thats not to say that I have not contributed considerable to date this is now coming straight from the horses mouth so to speak (just to keep my dad happy!)

With a driver that looks like a premiere league sumo wrestler we feel very safe. No one is stopping this van without getting more than they bargain for, seriously this guy is huge and he fills 2 seats in the front. He has that wild "dont f*ck with me look in his eyes" but is very polite and helpful all the same. Ever seen the sumo guy called "the Dump Truck" well this is him, he is now a driver/security guard in Mexico!

Oaxaca is already 1400m above sea level and the route through the mountains takes us up to nearly 4000m now for anyone who knows anything about heights (I´m not looking at Maja at this point!) knows that is pretty high and its so high in fact they have to add a little "magic juice" to the petrol to keep the old tranny ticking over!

Anyone who has been cycling or snow boarding with me knows that I love to throw a car around on a mountain road thats not to mention my thirst for speed when on a bike going down hill(67.4 mph is the record for anyone whose interested!)

Anyway all I can say is this dude is straight out of the Michael Schumacher school of driving and I´m seriously impressed! He takes the tranny van to its limits without making any suicidal manouevres or putting us at risk in any way. He knows the road like the back of his hand and uses every inch of the surface (and sometimes the grass verge) to perfection ensuring maximium velocity and min risk!

I dont know what Madge is complaining about writing this blog is really easy!

I think you get the idea this guy is seriuously impressive and so is the scenary to boot! Speed, danger and something nice to look at, I´ve died and gone to heaven! The landscape was the best we have seen since the Copper Canyon but this trip is not one for the faint hearted, nervous passengers or those predisposed to travel sickness! It would be your worst nightmare! Fortunately Maja is a bit dosey it was an early start after all and seems more than happy for dumptruck to get on with his job!

Chapeau (that´s a cycling term for those of you who dont know meaning good effort)! to the dumptruck for getting us there on time, in one piece. I decide to offer the man 10 pesos (50p in real money) tip in recognition of his efforts! He smiles and declines politely we scuttle off, dont want to upset him now do we!

We take a "proper bus" from Puerto Escondido to Pochutla.

Apparantely its really easy to get a "collectivo" (some groupage affair where you all club together to cover the cost of the trip which is a fiver!) taxi to out final destination Zipolite!

After 1 hour of stomping around, naff directions and lots of blank looks we gaff it off and get a private taxi! There comes a point when saving 3 quid is just not worth the hassle. 30 mins later we arrive in paradise..........DOGSVILLE!

That is a unfair as you will see its a very lovely place all be it let down somewhat by the hundreds (or so it seemed) of skanky, stray dogs roaming around (they certainly are mans best friend in Mexico, or not as the case may be)

To be continued.........keep a look out for the fabulous pics - paradise just maybe----not enough for the LEES to extend their stay.

Adrian over and out!

Mt Alban - not as cool as Teotichuan

Wednesday, 19 August

Up early we grab some fruit for brekkie and head on the tour bus to the Mt Alban ruins. These are the oldest Zapotec ruins dating back to 500 BC. We have a great half day taking on the amazing views of the mountains and the landscapes.

The ruins are pretty cool but not nearly as awesome as the Teotichuan pyramids.....


Not a huge amount of information is provided on the excavations so you are not really learning anything about the buildings except for the obvious things like how old they are etc....


Dinner is at a very below average vegetarian restaurant - trying to be healthy however not succeeding, as we get another "salad, without any salad" just chicken, mayo and 4 dices of carrot.

Entertainment for the night.... a she man complaining about the quality of the food.

Ade not feeling great - though he does eat all his food so I´m not worried....... ;)

Puebla to Oaxaca (wa-ha-ca)

Tuesday, 18 August contd (PM)

Arrive in Oaxaca late and keen to get a bed for the night - first 3 hostels we try all full, we have no choice but to stay in a hotel.

After dumping our stuff and Ade (prima donna) complaining that the bed is too soft we head for some food. We find a classic Mexican cantina, chow down & head to bed - off to the Mt Alban ruins tomorrow morning.

Welcome to Puebla

Tuesday, 18 August 2009

Another 2 hour bus journey (on a not so nice bus) we are in Puebla, planning to stay 1 night - however a swift look around and we decide that 3 hours will more than suffice. Not much to say on Puebla other than it has over 170 churches and there was a protest happening while we were there.

Adios

Did I tell you about the time.........

Monday, 17 August

Last day at Zihua - back at the hostel we have a new arrival - Englishman Ian. Early 40´s, out of work actor, vegan, tee total and allergic to soap powder - we were defo going to hit it off.

Anyway, we are barely out of the introductions stage, when he proceeds to indulge us with an entire hour of his exploits. Ian cycled from Vancouver to Mexico and will continue through central America this way (interesting maybe - riverting definitely not!)

Ian detects we are trying to get away so in an attempt to woo us exclaims "Did I tell you about the time I canoed the congo........????" NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!

The only interesting (but equally smelly) companion we have is Troy, the hostel owners dog (pic below). Its worth a mention that Mexico to this point has been very quiet on the old traveller front . We are keen to meet interesting travellers and share stories but as yet have not had the opportunity.
We leave Zihua and head to Mexico City - in transit as we need to get to a city called Puebla.

11pm: 8 hour bus journey to Mexico city on the "Diamante", the most luxiourious and comfortable bus you can imagine. We even get a goodie bag!

We sleep all the way to Mexico City.

New friends ....

Sunday, 16 August contd....

A few hours into our day at Las Gatas, Ade spots a guy carrying a large headless tuna. The guy (whose name by the way is Jose), his wife (Karla) and their beautiful four children end up sitting next to us. After initial small talk, they kindly offer for us to join them for lunch (the restaurant is cooking their fresh fish), Adrian not being the shy retiring type and a food lover jumps at the opportunity to knosh down "yes I would love it". We end up spending the rest of the day with them, drinking beers, exchanging stories on wine, food, and life.


Hey its wham!

The chiquitas.......

Jose and Karla are both such fun company and very genuine people - it was one of those days that you just wanted to go on. The end did come very quickly - too quickly in fact as we missed our last boat back to the mainland so Jose and Karla kindly gave us a ride back on their private boat.

We have exchanged details and we will definitely keep in touch. Adios for now amigos!

Playa Las Gatas

Sunday, 16 August

Not satisfied with the quality of the beach yesterday, we head to a beach called Las Gatas only reachable by boat. We grab a water taxi and head over, we get some pretty cool shots during the 15 min boat ride....

Indeed it´s a much better beach - the sand is whiter, the water clear, some people are snorkelling. We do find a lovely restaurant/bar with sun loungers down the far end of the beach - we order our Michelada´s and settle in for the day.

Gortex jackets make their appearance...

Saturday, 15 August contd.....

The rain eases just a little so we get all Gortexed up and venture out for dinner, while walking we notice a huge fire that was caused by the lighting - never seen anything like it before.

We get to a typical Mexican taquiella called taco Del centro, where we both have gorgeous beef tacos and a chicken stir fry mexican stylie- washed down with our favourite drink Michelada (remember lager version of a bloody Mary)

Playa La Ropa - salad what salad?

Saturday, 15 August

25 minute hike to the main beach of Zihua "La Ropa" - on the way a local points out a baby crocodile basking in the sun in the lagoon - wicked just what we want.

We get to the beach, its OK nothing to write home about - another classic Lonely Planet recommendation - big up over naught! Interesting beach policy too - to sit on the beach you have to get a sun longer supplied by many of the restaurants on the beach, you can sit on the sun longers all day FREE, but there must be a catch? Of course, there is!!!

As well as your sun longers and table you also get your very own annoying waiter - asking you every 5 mins if you are OK and asking what you want to drink/eat. To get rid of him, we decide to order something so opt for the cheapest things on the menu - caesar salad each and two diet cokes. When the salad arrived we did a double take: each salad consisted of 4 lettuce leaves, 2 tons of ceasar dressing and 1 crouton. GREAT!!!!!!!!! Maja decides to launch into a complaint about the quality and quantity and the waiter even more annoyingly then says" if you are still hungry order something else"ARGHHHH!!!!We order 2 Corona´s give him a evil look and he leaves us alone for the rest of the afternoon.

Walking back to hostel it starts to rain, then the most wicked thunder and lighting we have ever experienced lets rip - we are basically stuck in our room for 2 hours until the rain eases.

Zi...what?

Friday, 14 August

Longest bus journey 20 hours to get to Zihuatanejo (see-wan-ta-neho). No air con during the day and bloody freezing at night.

Arrive in Zihua (as the locals call it) early evening - this is the beach town made famous in the film Shawshank Redemption when Tim Robbins´ character dreams of coming here - so expectations are very high. We grab a taxi to yet another Lonely Planet recommendation - a hostel (name escapes me) owned by an artist/surfer (Mallia) , her artwork is all over the grounds of the hostel and all the rooms - the place is super bright, with a very new age look and feel to it...
We get a room with a bathroom, interesting ......I have never had a bathroom where I can take a shower and sit on the loo at the same time - excellent use of space.

Hungry we decide to hit the town and grab some grub. Alot of places are very expensive and we end up stumbling into a pizzeria owned by an actual Italian from Milan. Immediately Ade notices the cycling pictures on the wall and very keen to showcase his cycling knowledge he proudly says to the guy "I love the photo on the wall of Fausto Coppi and Gino Bartalli" the guy is flabbergastered not only has on-one commented on the pics before but he has not met anyone in Mexico who actually knows who the cyclists are - Adrian has a fan. For the next 30 mins they shoot the breeze about the Tour De France and the relationship between drugs and Italian cyclists in particular Marco Pantani.

Re food: Great pizza though a little light on the topping.

Sunday, 16 August 2009

Too many beers and taco´s....

can make you look loco......check it out! Not Ade´s best angle ......


Pock boy!


People - take note. Do not put moisturiser, sun tan lotion then insect repellant on your face as this could happen to your forehead......





A day by the bus depot....

Thursday, 13 August

Looking to make the best out of a bad situation, the Lees get to work on the blog. Well actually it´s me (maja), doing the blog, while Adrian "supports" which involves reading catching up on all the cycling news, including archive files, drinking eating, then inspecting various toilets in that order.

So I spent 6 hours writing the blog, my ankles so swollen as I haven´t left my seat all day.

To thank me for my efforts Ade takes me for a couple of beers at a bar opposite the bus station (lucky girl) where we mixed it up with the locals. A cowboy (attire of stetson hat and snakeskin cowboy boots) takes an instant liking to us, and sends over two rounds of drinks. He basically looks like he is straight out of "dusk to dawn" including scar on his right cheek, not a handsome fella. I would have loved to have showed you guys a pic, but Ade did not feel comfy with the chap so alas no pic.

I was very proud of Ade, as he didn´t want the guy to think we were taking the p&ss, he walked over to him said to him in Spanish "I dont speak Spanish, I´m from London" shook his hand and bought him a drink. Nice work Ade, I definitely felt a lot safer now.

Donde bus? = where is bus??

Wed , 12 August PM contd...

10:00 = Bus should be here

10:30 = We should be leaving for Zihuanatejo

10:50 = Bus must be late

11:15 = Bus must be really late

11:30 = "Maja, think you should go and ask where´s the bus?"

11:31-11:41 = Maja has heated argument in Spanish with ticket office manager

11:42 = The doozy bird yesterday put the wrong bus number on our tickets and we missed the connection.

11:45: Get new tickets and have to stay in hotel next door to bus depot

Thank god we didn´t lose our 100 pounds for the tickets

Note to self: always check bus number on ticket

Mazatlan - last day

Wednesday, 12 August

Following the usual morning trip to the supermarket for breakfast fruit etc....sh&t being on a budget, but we are managing for those out there who thought we wouldn´t make it passed day 2!

Today carbon copy of yesterday - we grab another delicous dinner at Leon and head to the bus station on the local bus. Taxis are for losers.

Revenge of the sheets - Maja strikes back

Tuesday, 11 August contd...

The bus leaves at 10:30pm tomorrow night and we want the room FOC until 7pm. After initial resistance Maja pulls out the big guns - the sheets and its game over for Hotel Belmar.

Friday, 14 August 2009

Cafe leon rocks......

Tuesday, 11 August continued ....

A day at the beach sure gives you beer thirst so after the bus ticket purchasing we head to the local next door and grab a 8 pack of beers before dinner.

We are hungry, earlier in the day Ade spotted a cafe called La Cueva del Leon, and the food looked fantastic, so we head along to sample the culinary delights. The boy is a genius it was delicious. We both had king prawns (very fresh) in a spicy mango sauce, with steamed rice and refired beans. Leaving us wanting more e decide to sample the baked chillies stuffedwith cheese - heavenly.

Drinks wise - I decided to sample the Chilean white wine on offer - let´s just say I didn´t have another one. Ade opted for the safer option the local beer - Pacifico.

I tried for the first time the mexican version of a bloody mary but made with lager it´s called Michelada and it´s made with lager, lime juice, salt, chili and worcester sauce (or English sauce as the Mexicans call it) and loads of ice. It is so delicious and will definitely be a staple drink in the Lee household for years to come.

Search for beach paradise....

Tuesday, 11 August continued...

We are craving the ideallistic beach - who know white sands, azure blue waters, so we decide to head to the bus station to get to Zihuatenejo (pronounced see -wah-te-neh-ho) which everyone raves about, its alot further down the Mexican pacific coast. The YTS (youth training scheme) ticket sales lady is mental, Maja has to ask her 15 times to buy a ticket to Zihuatenejo, before she finally acknowledges that the bus does go there (never mind that the destination is on a board behind her written in 6 inch high letters with the price). We get our tickets for 10:30pm tomorrow night.

It will be a 18 hour bus journey from Matzalan so it better bloody be worth it!

Stone island - Mazatlan

Tues, 11 August

A fat, bald American guy working in the hotel (fU%&%$ annoying) recommends we take a water taxi to Stone Island as it has a better beach.

He is full of sh(t but we decide to check it out. Dodging the jaggernauts we get to the water taxi and 10 mins later we are at the island.

First impressions: beach stretches for miles with palm trees but on closer look its basically dirty sand with cans and cra&p everywhere - not exactly azure blue waters as described.

Picture below - and you will think mmmm not bad - looks good. It is defintely a case of "nice from afar but far from nice!"


Mazatlan - a "has been beach town"

We walk 4km of the 20km beach, we see so many derelict houses, restuarants and hotels - you get the feeling that this place has definitely passed its best.

We reach a empty part of the beach and its OK, we don´t want to sugar coat it for you - the beach is far from idyllic - it´s grubby, untidy and a strong rip in the water prevents us from doing any swimming. So we read and splash around in the water, Adrian splashs abit too much as he gets the attention of the life guard who proceeds to blow his whistle.......

Dinner was underwhelming - sum it up fishy fish tacos and the toughest prawns we had ever tasted - the margharita was crap too, a big popiscle that gave you brain freeze.

We are not too sure about Lonely Planets recommendations - backhanders anyone? On a positive note though the sunset is worth a mention, it is reminiscent of cafe del mar - or so Adrian claims....for a minute we forgot about the out of date seafood - but just for a minute....

Clean sheets? que??


Sunday, 9 August continued....

Hotel inspector Adiran commences his examination of the room - it doesn´t start off well. The sheets of our bed are dirty, with sand, a toenail, 1/2 a biscuit, dead skin and strands of black hair - very gross.

We go to reception to complain, we are reassured that it will sorted as soon as we get back from dinner. Dinner, mmmmm whatever, being on a budget sucks. Dinner is shitty sammies, a pepperoni stick each (whopppee), crisps and of course beer (by the way a can of beer is cheaper tha a diet coke - so no excuses). We have this exquisite meal on the promenade which is full of energy, a band playing and lots of couples and families chiling out enjoying the very hot night. It´s amazing how the most simple things can make you happy!

Returning to the hotel feeling relaxed and ready to get tucked into bed, we discover that we now have no bedding at all, we both can´t be arsed going back down to reception so we roll out our trusty cotton sleeping bag and decide to sort the bedding out in the morning.


Hotel Belmar - in brief

In it´s hey day the hotel would have been beautiful, the building has some stunning features including mosaic tiles and amazing tile and water features throughout the hotel. With gorgeous lead lighting, it is in desperate need of some TLC, however as the new town (Zona Dorada) is more popular with the American tourists (by the way we are constantly mistaken for Americans, or gringos as the Mexicans affectionately call them, Adrian puts them straight " sorry mate, we are English") I don´t think any money will be spent on this once iconic hotel - which is a shame.


This is a pic in our room - putting to use the clothes line my lovely friend Claire bought us and the travel towel, don´t go travelling without one.


Hotel Belmar - John Wayne loved it (apparently)

Sunday, 9 August - 6:30pm
We get the local bus to take us as far as possible to Matzalan old town centre, and we get dropped off 1km away from the hotel, so with 20kgs each on our backs we walk the 1km and get to Hotel Belmar - apparently this used to be John Waynes fav haunt - and well let´s just say it´s on it´s last leg. Note to self: No way would John Wayne get involved with that swimming pool - bright yellow with scum floating on the top.

We start the usual price negotiation and in walk our 3 Aussie mates (Craig, Shazza and Chaza- just made up those last two names) anyway, we pretend to be friends in order to get a better deal and go off to inspect the rooms on offer. Well, well, welll........the first room was threadbare, dark and smelt like someone had died in there, the second room was no better however bogen Craig takes the initiative and yells at the top of his voice "Yeah, it´s awwwwright ayyyyyyyeeeee, big beds, not bad, not bad at all!" The girls (including me) ignore him and we ask in broken Spanish to see more.

The other rooms are alot better and we agree to stay 3 night ($US90 for 3 nights), as do our fair dinkum mates.

Los Mochis to Mazatlan

Sunday, 9 August
In desperate need for some fun in the sun, we are very excited about heading down the coast of Mexico. Mazatlan is Mexico´s first ever beach resort and was the fav haunt of 1950´s Hollywood stars.....we are hoping it will deliver.....

Coach journey
8 hours on the coach from Los Mochis to Mazatlan made even more special by having the sweatest, loudest snoring, coca cola guzzling Mexican (lets call him Pancho) sitting in front of you reclining the chair right back, so he is in practically inbetween my legs and I could give him a head massage. So Adrian didn´t feel left out, Pancho swaps seats half way though the journey (4 hour mark) and provides him with the same treatment - LOOVELY!

Travelling wouldn´t be travelling without bumping into some Aussies and today is our lucky day. Usual small talk on the coach "where the hell are ya from?" etc you get the drift







Thursday, 13 August 2009

Copper Canyon - Creel to Los Mochis

Saturday, 8 August 2009

Spectacular doesn´t do it justice. No words can express how dramatic and beautiful this part of the world is. And seeing it all from a train, just makes it even more breathtaking.






Spend 1/2 of the journey (6 hours of the 11 hour journey) with our heads out the window, soaking up our surroundings: waterfalls, canyons the works! Nature at its best. The railway is one fantastic piece of engineering - this has to be one of the worlds best train journeys.

Sit in the bar on the train, meet a lovely Mexican couple, share a few beers and a laugh . Michel loves Sean Connery and Frank Sinatra, he keeps us entertained with his impression of Brits and "Gringos".

Dinner on train - dry enchilladas with congeled refried beans - a hideoulsy expensive affair, no mention of 15 percent tax and we are stung 15 pounds for a crap meal.


Journey ends in Los Mochis (arse end of nowhere) - look for a hotel , we don't have a hotel booked but this has not been a problem for us so far. We taxi to Hotel Fenix (another Lonely Planet recommendation) and get to bed early as we have a 8 hour coach ride tomorrow to beach resort Mazatlan.

Guts and glory.....

The return journey is hardwork, but with Lee team effort we pushed on through despite the next 22kms were in a thunder storm. We made it back to the 3 amigos with an hour to spare (6 hours later- having completed 54kms!)
Maja's determination to carry on the big hills warrants a special mention, demonstrating there is more to Maja than Chanel lip gloss and Gina heels ;)

Ade's cycling blurb:
Adrian's etape training definitely paid dividends as he had the strength to push me on the uphill - doing the etape definitely saved the day - thank god for the etape and cycling training camps and all those weekends Adrian has spent cycling. I love the Colnago now....

Soaked to the skin we arrive back in Creel when we bump into our two American friends (remember we mentioned then earlier) all snuggled in their Winabago style van - a definite sliding doors moment.

After a hot shower we head to "Veronica's" Creels food highlight for some well deserved tasty burgers and beer and guess who we bump into.....yep our two little friends, who were also eating there. They proceed to buy us a cake later for our anniversary and the whole restaurant claps for us - we make friends wherever we go! We exchange details as they could be great contacts if we ever end up in La la land.

What an incredible day - we will never forget our 6th wedding anniversary.

Creel - Lack of signage causes confusion....

Friday, 7 August 2009 continued...
As we approach a farm building alongside a river, two crazy dogs start chasing us, the owner who is 100m away does absolutely nothing to avert the situation. The rabies shot suddenly seems like money well spent....

No other option but to plough through the river. We reach the other side and have no idea where to go, we are out in the widerness. We opt to cross the bridge to find this bloody lodge, when we are met by a little Raramuri boy. He proceeds to hold out his hands and begs us for money; we both say no and he bursts into tears, suddenly we feel like we are in a scene from "Deliverence" as the boys father is a stones throw away, staring at us. At that moment we see another cyclist so we take the opportunity to take off.

We reach the entrance of the waterfall only to be told it was another 3km, having not eaten for hours, and shaken up by the dogs and the little boy we take a break to eat and discuss our two options: go ahead or turn back.
Feeling stronger and believing THE LEES NEVER GIVE UP, we decide to take it to the max and go all the way. We spot a "500m to the waterfall" sign - however 500m turns into 2km a combination of pushing the bike and cycling, we have come too far to turn back now!

We finally reach the waterfall - it is amazing and well worth the pain and effort. A distant sound of thunder and approaching back rain clouds summons us into action.



Adrian is very impressed with my bike handling skills and keeps saying how he is witnessing a birth of another cyclist - I must admit after this ride I have a new found respect for cyclists - music to Ades ears.

All aboard the copper canyon express...

Friday, 7 August 2009

Decision to stay opposite station pays off - early moring start (4:45am). About to start the amazing train ride through copper canyon.

First class train (only option) note to self: definition of first class in Mexico is very different in our world.

First leg of train journey: Chihuahua (cowboy country) to Creel
Not much to see for the first couple of hours - however scenery improves as we head into the mountains.



Breakfast - a simple affair toast with jam and coffee (9 pounds!) but the scenary more than makes up for it.

Adrian spends next 3 hours with his head out the window taking in the smell of fresh pine and waving at cowboys like an excited schoolboy - read into that what you like :)



Creel - one night stop over
11:30am: After setting off in the wrong direction , we finally find our "hotel" a lonely planet recommendation - WHAT A DUMP! but cheap 10 pounds for the night. Thank god, Mike advised us to get cotton sheet sleeping bags, they were definitely going to be christened tonight.

Time is of the essence so we head to the travel group "3 amigos" to hire mountain bikes. We are keen to do the 22km ride to Cascada Cusarare (waterfall). The guy advised us to leave our bikes at Sierra Lodge "not far from the waterfall" mmmmmmm

Glorious sunshine we set off and suddenly we both realise its our 6th wedding anniversary - we feel incredibly lucky to be in such a romantic location.

Our first "sight" is when we pass the "Raramuri" indigenous people of the area , who live in caves, have their own language and the woman and young girls dress in bright coloured clothes. Their sandals are made out of tire tread and leather. We pass Lake Arareko, stunning. time not on our side so we move on.


14km - I start to ask "are we nearly there" my arse is sore and my legs stiff - it's hard peddling 2400m above sea level and I haven't ridden a bicyle in over 5 years! Despite my continous pleas to have a break and some lunch , Adrian convinces me to continue and have a romantic lunch at the falls - yeah right. The ride was far from flat, undulating to say the least - two climbs of more than 3kms. After 22km we see the signs for the falls and the lodge and this is where the fun begins.......

Chihuahua - the city not the state

Thursday, 6 August

Keeping in open mind we take the bull by the horns and explore Chihuahua. We didn´t realise the importance of Chihuahua in Mexcian history. It was a focal point for the "war of independence".
Hidalgo museum fascinating.

Casa Chihuahua - A potted history of Mexico's largest state. A chance meeting with two gay californian's - more about them later.

Pancho Villa´s mansion: the idealistic revolutionary who freed Mexico from the grasps of the a dictator in the early 20th century. It´s an amazing story of how the wild Mexican west was won. We even saw first hand the car he was killed in - bullet holes and all.

Finished the day by chomping down on rotisserie chicken, washed down with a couple of beers with the local prison guards, wtih guns still in their holsters.















The corn is on the move...

Wednesday, 5 August 2009



Maja spends most of the day in and out of various toilets - regretting she had previoulsy felt so cocky (the damn corn!)



Chihuahua here we come.......

The most expensive taxi in Mexico 12 pounds for a 10 minute ride, but no train, no bus, no option we had to bite the bullet and pay up.



Hostel we wanted to stay in closed, taxi driver recommends hotel next door, 20 pouunds for 2 nights bed and breakfast. Noisest airconditioning that could wake the dead, hotel definitely needs to give Nola Electrical a call. great location - right next to the state prison (NICE!) Only positive - right opposite the "Chepe" copper canyon train station.



Initial impression of Chihuahua - WHAT THE FU%K ARE WE DOING HERE!!!!!!

Mexico City - day 3

The amazing "Los Perimides"






















First experience of the metro: cheap (80p for 2) and quick to bus terminal to visit Teotihuacan (a complex of awesome pyramids) and has the 3rd largest pyramid in the world "pyramid of the sun".

Bus journey interesting, passed the shanty towns of Mexico City, which are spread right into the hills of the city. 1 hour and we arrive at the pyramids, we spend all day covering every inch of the excavations, grounds, the museum and of course the two pyramids (sun and moon)


The sun pyramid has 246 steps to the top. I'm at first very keen to get to the top and channel in my "lara croft" however 3/4 of the way up I get a case of vertigo and I start to question the purpose of the quest, in other words "I can´t go any further, Adrian!" With words of encouragement from my "Indiana Jones" I perceive to the summit and can´t believe I made it to the top. The view is nothing short of spectacular and the atmosphere so peaceful, however no time to waste as Adrian wants to move on" Maja, there´s more ground to cover, let´s go". Easier said than done.........







I´m filled with intrepidation re: getting down, as I watch my fellow pyramid enthusiasts go down with ease ie: a rather large lady in high heels (yes really) gliding down, kids skipping down and a old granny with one leg practically skateboarding down .. no time to waste I start my descent, clammy hands and am down in 20 mins.
















The pyramids are spectacular, as are the excavations and the murals - a must see in Mexico City.

On the way back, heavens open we head to Plaza Garibaldi for a beer, sh"it hole, don´t bother expensive beer and pikey locals.

After a classier joint we head to "le opera bar" best watering hole in the city - reminiscent of bars in Havana.

















Head back to hotel, pass a spicy corn stand - seemed innocent - BIG MISTAKE!!!!!!














Mexico city - day 2

Monday, 3 August

Exploring the city......

Keeping it cheap - breakfast is at the local seven 11, 3 pounds bargain!

3 hour bus tour, we stop off in a very trendy neighbourhood reminiscent of Soho in New York. We have an excellent meal of traditional chicken enchilladas in mole sauce (sauce made of chillies, onion, coriander, anise, cinamon, garlic, toasted peanuts, almonds and chocolate).

Post tour we stubble across street dancers, breakdancing to classic tunes, Maja loved it, Ade (old man) wanted to move on as too noisy!!!!!!

We book flights to Chihuahua (126 pounds each) - courtesy of BA - at this stage we are not up for an 18 hour bus journey.

Feeling confident as neither of us has had a dodgy belly, we have our first street food stall experience, a wholemeal taco with refried beans, parsley, cheese and a spicy chili salsa. Gorgeous, we couldnçt get enough so we have two.

Feeling the jet lag and with a big day ahead we call it a night at 7:30pm, no dinner just a couple of diet cokes.

Mexico city....day 1

Sunday, 2 August

Taxi to hotel a breeze, secure taxi booth immediately outside the arrivals gate and at 152 peso (12 pounds) not bad at all. Food smells wafting in, are making Adrian very hungry.

8:30am: arrive at hotel to be told "sorry (beginning to hate that word), there is no reservation". Thank god we had printed off the expedia reservation - their disorganisation works in our favour - we ended up staying 4 nights not 3 and we didn´t get charged the extra night - yippee more dosh in our pockets!
We stuff our faces at the hotel buffet breakfast, we fill our boots with fresh fruit, chili beef stew, nachos, refried beans, creamy mashed potatoes, fajitas you name it is was there, and it all ended up in our bellies.

Feeling slightly lethargic from our eating marathon, we set off to explore the city and go on our own walking tour, we see Aztec dancers, templo mayor - the aztec centre of the universe, it is thought to be the exact spot where the Aztecs saw their symbolic eagle, perching on a cactus with a snake in its beak - the symbol of Mexico today. We go to the catedral metropolitana - Mexico City's most iconic structure, we walk through the Almeda Central (Mexico City's central park) and finish the walking tour off with beers on a rooftop bar overlooking the city. What an amazing day, life is just great! Some pics from our day......
















The departure...

Saturday, 1 August 2009
Feeling very hungover after Gordon threw us a truly outstanding final farewell - we just love those farewell drinks!

Early train from Darlo to London, get to London new experience - tube journey to Heathrow (forget the Heathrow express) start as you mean to go on.

Chaos at Terminal 5, British Airways overbook all flights, our flight overbooked by 54 seats. We are asked whether we would like to voluteer for the alternative route via Vancouver, oh and wait for it.....£1,000 for our troubles. The Lee's were first in and after 30 mins we are told the good news, we would be used as volunteers , what a way to start the trip and only 12 hours later than scheduled! Celebrated in Vancouver with bloody Marys and a bottle of the finest pinot gris on the menu.

Check in for flight Vancouver to Mexico City with the "friendly" national airline - ­­Mexicana. We are told "sorry your booking is in the system but no link to your eticket. BA had to give you tickets, without ticket no flight - sorry!" We are sent to BA desk, of course no one was there, its 10pm! Lots of toing and froing with the airline staff, who are about as helpful as a chocolate teapot and who seem to be expert at giving us lots of blank looks, we are offered a lifeline 10 mins before check in closes and we make the flight.

Expecting a hot meal and a cold beer, we are sorely disappointed - instead we are offered a dry ham croissant and a lukewarm beer, by this point we we are too tired to care - 5 hours later we arrive in Mexico City.

Welcome to our blog!

Ola family and friends! Well the Lees are finally online so ......Welcome to our blog.

We are only 10 days into our trip and everyone has already been asking us re: when this blog was going live, (its great to have so many fans!) well the waiting is finally over. We will attempt to update the blog once a week with witty retort and fantastic pics for your viewing and reading pleasure.

We hope that you enjoy following our adventures through south and central America, as much as we enjoy being here exploring this amazing part of the world.

Lots of love
Ade and Maja xxxxx